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DIY by Natasha Nagornaya. Make a polymer clay faerie!

Wednesday, December 2, 2015

This is a gust post by Natasha Nagornaya who is a polymer clay artist. I hope you will enjoy her DIY and find it helpful!
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In this guest post I am going to show you how to make a polymer clay doll with this step-by-step instruction. I took the pictures while creating this delicate and refined faerie Margareta.


You will need:

1. polymer clay (I had Fimo)
2. carving tools
3. rouge and a fine brush.
4. scraps of fabric, suede and faux fur
5. doll hair
6. doll eyelashes
7. beads, rhinestones and pins
8. a stand for the future doll
9. transparent craft glue
10 synthetic thread, needle and scissors.

Polymer clay gets dirty very easily so you need to keep your hands, tools and the work surface very clean. I use wet wipes during work. You can also wash the work that is not baked yet with the liquid soap and cool water.


I sculpted all the doll's parts separately since it was made without a wire "skeleton". I made: the upper part of the body and the head together, the legs and the arms. That made it easier to put the doll together. It makes it easier to dress up the doll too. 

Take a small piece of polymer clay and mash it well with your hands before you start shaping the head and the torso.


Gently pull the clay to make a nose, then push on the eyes area to create the eyebrows. 


Attach a small piece of clay to make the lips. Use your fingers and the carvers to smooth out the edges. Make a thin cut in the middle.


Take your time to work on the lips. Do not forget a dimple under the nose.


The eyes are going to be closed, so just use a thin carver to engrave a half-round cuts to show the eyelash line. Show the nostrils and the dimples on the sides of the nose by pressing a ball point carver into them.


Cut a small piece of clay into the halves (this way you are making sure that they are the same size) to make the ears. Attach them to the head, trying to follow the symmetry (it is better to look from all the directions, do not forget to look from the top of the head too). Smooth out the edges with the carvers. 


Make a dimple in the middle of each ear and the grooves on the inside edge of the ears.


Form a body curve according to the designed posture. Start working on the neck and the shoulders. At this stage I dyed the lips and the cheeks with the rouge to give it a realistic color. It is easy to remove the excess of the rouge with the wet wipes or a wet q-tip. Note that the rouge color will look pailer after you bake the doll. I also added some pearl shadows on the eyelids. 

You can bake the head and body when they are ready (follow the baking instruction on your polymer clay package).


Roll a long "sausage" and fold it to make the legs. It is easier to make them identical this way.


Sculpt the feet and the knees.


Make the arms and the hands. Make three cuts on the ends of the "sausages" and form 4 fingers (attach the thumbs later). I form the fingers with my hands (no tools). Let the clay cool down if it gets too warm from handing it.


Attach the thumbs when you are finished with the other fingers. Note that they are thicker at the base. The fingers should not touch each other. Use a thin carver to separate them if needed. 

Give each hand a desired position. 


Make sure that all the parts are proportionally correct by placing them by each other. Then you can bake them. 

Now you can start working on the cloths. You can use any materials for this. I like fabrics that do not require the edge work. The stitches look rough when the cloths are so tiny. I use glue and really thin nylon threads. 


Cut out a piece of fabric for the top and glue it to the body. Place glue on the doll's body, not on the fabric.



Use a thin strip of the same fabric for the wrists to show the "sleeves" of the top. 

I used a piece of suede to make a jacket with the sleeves. I usually cut a piece that is a little bit bigger than I need, then I adjust it while attaching it to the doll. Bend the edges of the sleeves inwards at the doll's shoulders to hide them. 


Use the same fabric to make the jacket.


Take a piece of mesh (tulle fabric or hosiery) to make the tights. Place the fabric and carefully glue the edges. Use your carvers to place tiny amounts of glue if needed. 


I also used the suede to make a short skirt. Make the fabric joint on the back side.  Cut the excess of the fabric at the top and bend the edges inwards. 


I used baby blue suede to make the shoes. Bend the edges inwards while you are gluing them in place.


I used thin translucent fabric to make the second skirt. Put one edge on a thread, make neat folds and glue the skirt to the doll's bottom part. 


Glue all the parts together. 


The next stage is the decoration of your faerie. 


I like to use natural doll hair. I carefully cut the seam off and glued the tresses by the small portions starting at the back of the head. Dip the roots of the hair in a drop of glue and then press them to the head.


Give your doll a feminine and sophisticated look by adding the eyelashes.  It is not an easy task, but it's worth it!


I also gave a faux fur hat decorated with the beads to my faerie. 


I needed to give her a magical wand. I used a piece of a wire pin and glued a pink pearl on its end, then glued the pin in place.


I also made a beaded belt. You can use rhinestones or beads to decorate the shoes or even make a finger ring. 


Now glue your faerie to a tiny stand and you're done!


I hope that this DIY will inspire you to create your little faerie!

Thank you very much for your attention!

Natasha Nagornaya


Beautiful nature

Canberra, Australia

Jewellery masterpieces. British museum

Tuesday, December 1, 2015

British Museum A mounted warrior, German mid 16th c.

DIY Polymer clay Hedwig the snowy owl pendant by Xenia Emelyanvov

Xenia Emelyanov makes wonderful polymer clay jewelry. She generously shares her instructions with her followers. Here is a DIY instruction on how to make an owl pendant.

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This polymer clay instruction is for those who have some experience in working with it. 

The owl was inspired by Hedwig the snowy owl that belonged to Harry Potter. .


To make this owl you will need:
  • Polymer clay (white and black).
  • A baking tray.
  • An x-acto knife.
  • Carving tools.
  • Metal findings.
  • A rolling pin.
  • A lacquer 
  • A toaster oven for backing polymer clay.

Take some polymer clay, squish it and roll with a rolling pin or a pasta machine.



I made my own owl eyes that placed on the top of my future owl, then I used a needle to outline a contour of the pendant. The white clay gets dirty during work, but do not worry about that, you won't see this when you are finished. 



Cut the owl out with your x-acto knife.



Use your fingers to smooth out the edges of the pendant, then start giving it the dimension.


Insert the bails and cover them with the polymer clay.


Add pieces of clay to raise some parts of the owl (as shown) to give it a relief. Smooth them out.



Insert the eyes. 



Form the eyelids and start developing the owl's face by using a wax carver with a boll point.


Add some extra polymer clay to form the feathers around the owl's eyes. Use the black clay to form the owl's beak. Use small pieces of the black clay to make the spots on the feathers. Check the owl pictures in Internet to achieve a more realistic look.

Use a needle to form tiny facial feathers. Note, that the polymer clay looks nice and white again where it was textured (if it got dirty before).


Add the owl's feet. Look at their position in the picture. I tried to give my owl a dynamic pose, so one foot is in the air while the other stretches down.


Add some black spots on the owl's side:


I textured the owl's body with a thicker needle to form larger feathers than those on its head:


The black spots are added to the owl's feet, plus I sculpted the talons: 


Here you can see that the feet are also textured at this point. Then I start working on the tail feathers:



I drew the lines on the feathers using my needle. Then I made thing rolls that I put in the middle of each feather.


It is time to start working on the wings. I used my ball point carver to form the end feathers. I made separately and attached other feathers to the wings. Do not forget about the black lines on the ends of the feathers!


Check the owl pictures again to make sure that your owl looks realistic while you are attaching the feathers. The closer the feathers to the body the smaller they are. The smallest feathers are not attached, but formed with a ball point carver:




Check the whole pendant to see if it is missing the texture anywhere. Bake your owl if you are hapy with your work.

Xenia Emelyanov
Online shop (Russian)
Youtube (Here you can watch this DIY as a slide show or a video)   


Monday nails

Monday, November 30, 2015

This nail design by Roza is too cool! It would look great with an upcycled necklace made of a zipper! :)


Monday Motivation

 Thank you for the tip, Napoleon Hill! I think I can do that! Sometimes... :)


 
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